The Forgotten C… Cut

Most people have heard of the 4 C’s of diamond grading.  They are Cut, Color, Clarity & Carat weight. Unfortunately, Cut is the least understood factor in diamond grading.  In gem quality diamonds, Cut has more to do with beauty than any single characteristic of the 4 C’s.  Cut has a lot to do with value and price, too.  One may choose to compromise on color, clarity or size, but to ensure that you have the most brilliant diamond possible, never compromise on cut.

What is an Ideal Cut?

An Ideal Cut is simply a diamond cut to ideal proportions.  In the early 1900s, mathematician Marcel Tolkowski published the results of his work (Diamond Design, London, 1919) which became the basis for the model known today as the "Ideal cut".  Although present tastes call for slightly larger tables than the 53% of the girdle diameter that was worked out by Tolkowski, for almost seven decades this basic formula remains the standard in the diamond world.  Ideal cut dictates that every facet be placed at exact angles and proportions that create an ideal balance between maximum brilliance (return of light to the eye) and dispersion or "fire" (the prism effect that separates white light into its spectral colors).  To gain this optimum reflection and refraction of light, the cutter must be willing to sacrifice expensive material, losing valuable carat weight to yield a smaller diamond of superior beauty.

How is an Ideal Cut different from other diamonds?

Most diamonds are cut for weight and therefore precise angles and percentages are routinely ignored.  Diamond cutters usually decide to sacrifice some beauty to make a heavier diamond and as a result less than 1% of diamonds are cut to ideal proportions.  The larger diamond with average cutting is produced in less time, at lower cost and of course, is not as beautiful as it could be.  Ideal cut diamonds are not for everyone and because they are more costly they appeal to that unique individual who appreciates and demands excellence.